Vineyards
Located on a hillside along the edge of western Dry Creek Valley, this small
Viognier parcel is planted along a north-south axis and is situated next
to forestland leading to the Pacific Coast. Because of its northern exposure,
the block sees much less direct sunlight than many of the surrounding vineyards
and remains on the cooler side of life. This moderate temperature is crucial
in maintaining higher acidity and refreshing zest. The steep slopes protect
against frost damage in early spring while the forest itself acts as a
natural “wild hedgerow” that helps moderate the wind. Farmed
without pesticides since 2004, these 10-year-old organically farmed vines
continue to dig in to the steep ground that they live in. Vertical shoot
positioning keeps leaves on both sides of the vines and encourages airflow
so the clusters remain cool and dry.
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Vintage
In early 2008 Mother Nature kept us guessing with frost
warnings throughout spring, which had most vineyard managers up
throughout the wee hours. Our vines were largely protected because
frost mostly settles on the valley floor, which is far from these
hillsides. Rainfall in March and April was the lowest in recorded
history and high winds during bloom whipped shoot tips around wires
that are like guillotines. Higher temperatures in August kick-started
Harvest 2008 quickly and we picked the Viognier on August 22nd,
just two days before Northern California got hammered by a week
and half of 100+ degree days. Whew! That was close.
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Wine
The 2008 Viognier reminds me what I love most about
having a peach tree in my backyard. In the early morning when
it’s still cool outside, they are refreshingly juicy and
crisp. Harvested just below 24 brix to ensure vibrant acidity,
this Viognier opens with an amazingly floral bouquet of peach,
citrus rind and richer tones of lemon chiffon. Opening up in
the glass, a touch of ripe grapefruit and apricot definitely
steer it along a lightly tropical theme. This wine closes in
on its Northern Rhone heritage as flavors of white peach and
lightly blanched almonds glide across the medium to full-bodied
palate. The finish is pure Dry Creek white wine with light green
tannins and acid taking the main stage, while tropical notes
and viscous mouthfeel fade out just like the final sounds on
an LP. Something from Stan Getz. Instead of relying on any oak
aging to build depth and contrast, we chose to add just a splash
of Semillon this year. It’s experimental but we liked
the results!$24 per bottle.
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